arusha national park is the surprise most travellers miss. set against the dramatic backdrop of mount meru — africa's fifth-highest peak at 4,566 metres — it packs three distinct worlds into 552 square kilometres: the shadowed depths of ngurdoto crater (an extinct caldera now wrapped in rainforest), the seven jewel-like momela lakes (each a different colour from the algae and salts), and the slopes of meru itself, rising from grassland through forest to alpine moorland.
for a park this small, the range of things to do is extraordinary. you can game drive past giraffe and buffalo in the morning, canoe among hippos on big momela lake at midday, and walk to a waterfall in afternoon rainforest — all without leaving the gates. and if you like, you can climb mount meru itself — a 3- to 4-day trek through five vegetation zones that many call the most rewarding mountain in east africa.
"You can game drive, canoe and hike in a single day. There is no other park in Africa where the variety per square kilometre is this rich."
the wildlife here is different, too. the famous big five are mostly absent — no lions, no rhinos — but you'll find creatures you rarely see elsewhere: magnificent black-and-white colobus leaping through the upper canopy, the largest blue monkey troops in northern tanzania, bushbuck slipping through the undergrowth, and africa's tallest giraffes browsing in the lakeshore meadows.
if you're staying in arusha town before or after a northern circuit, the park makes a perfect day trip. if you're climbing kilimanjaro, the meru ascent is the ideal way to acclimatise. and if you simply want a wilder, quieter tanzania, it might just be the best-kept secret on the whole northern circuit.