lake manyara is the small park that keeps on surprising. stretched along the base of the great rift valley escarpment, it packs an extraordinary range of habitats into just 330 square kilometres — groundwater forest dense enough to hide elephants, baobab-studded acacia woodland, the vast alkaline lake itself, and the scarred red cliffs of the rift rising 670 metres above the floor.
it's most famous for one thing: the tree-climbing lions. found in only two african parks, these lions have learned to drape themselves across the high branches of ancient acacia and fig trees — partly to escape the heat, partly the tsetse flies, perhaps partly just because they can. to round a corner and find a lioness asleep on a branch six metres above you is one of the great surprises of any safari.
"Lake Manyara is the gentlest introduction to Africa's wilderness. The forest gives way to lake, the lake to escarpment, and somewhere in between a lion looks down on you from a tree."
but manyara is far more than its tree lions. the lake itself shifts with the season — from a glittering soda flat to a vast pink mirror of flamingos. the hot springs of maji moto bubble up out of the rift floor. the groundwater forest at the entrance hides a healthy herd of elephants and the largest gathering of olive baboons in east africa. and the treetop walkway — a canopy-level suspension bridge through the upper forest — offers a view of the bush most travellers never get to see.
manyara is rarely a place you stay for several nights on its own. but as the perfect first or last stop on a northern circuit — a half-day or one-night welcome to tanzanian wildlife — it's hard to beat. hemingway, who hunted here in 1933, called it "the loveliest [park] i had seen in africa." it still holds up.